Coptic Cairo
Although Cairo is referred to as the "city of a thousand minarets," its historical attractions go far beyond the Pyramids and old mosques. Coptic Cairo, with its fortresses, churches, and synagogues, predates the actual founding of Cairo by the Muslim Fatimids in 969 AD. It is part of "Old Cairo," the original city center for centuries.
The last language of the Ancient Egyptians, Demotic Egyptian, served as the direct ancestor of Coptic. The ancient Egyptian phrase Hwt-Ka-Ptah, which means "the House of God Ptah," is thought to be the source of the word "Copt." Later, while Egyptian Coptic Christians used the Coptic term "Kyptos," the Greeks referred to Egypt as "Aigyptos."
Following the Islamic invasion of Egypt in 639 ADS, the term "Copt" came to be exclusively associated with Coptic Christians, having formerly been used to describe all Egyptians.
Coptic Cairo is located in a busy part of central Cairo yet is readily reached by Uber or by automobile. Additionally, Mar Girgis is one of the few tourist destinations in Cairo with its metro stop. Therefore, this may be a nice place to experience the metro if you wish to do so in Cairo.
Alternatively, if you're driving, just enter "Mar Girgis" into your Google Maps and it will direct you right to the complex's entrance.
What to Expect
Coptic Cairo is a somewhat closed-off compound with a clearly marked entry and exit that is closely watched by tourism police. Once you're inside the complex, everything is pedestrian. The large churches and the fortress ruins are on the main path, while the older, smaller churches are located farther inside and are only accessible through narrow lanes. The back is where the Coptic cemeteries are.
Local advice: arrive on a weekday morning, the sooner the better, to avoid crowds. On the weekends, local visitors who reside outside of Cairo frequently visit, causing it to be busier than normal. Also keep in mind that several of the churches there are still in use, and there is a recreation center and a wedding hall that conducts regular operations.
Things to See
Babylon Fortress
The remains of the Babylon Fortress, which were erected on the site of an ancient Egyptian town of the same name, are among the first sights you'll notice as you approach Coptic Cairo. It functioned as a boundary marker between Upper and Lower Egypt and was constructed where a canal connected the Nile to the Red Sea.
Ancient Hanging Church history
A passage near the cafeteria leads to the al Muallaqa Church (Hanging Church) built over one of the Roman bastions, visible at the back of the church. The building is reached via a steep staircase and a vestibule where Coptic souvenirs are on sale. The church probably dates from the 7th century, although some Copts claim it’s older. Its dark interior is magnificent, with cedar paneling, a wooden Ark-like ceiling, a finely carved marble pulpit supported by 12 pillars representing the Apostles, and superb 13th-century panels inlaid with bone and ivory hiding the three haikals (altars).
St.George church
The oldest church here is probably the 5th-century Abu Sarga (St. Sergius), with an even older crypt where the Holy Family is said to have rested during their exile in Egypt. In the Chapel of the Convent of St.George visitors wishing to be blessed can be wrapped in chains by the nuns.
Church of St. George
St. George's is one of the few circular churches constructed in Egypt. It is atop a former Roman tower that links the monastery below. The church's interior is renowned for its elaborate woodwork and beautiful glass.
In the Coptic neighborhood of Cairo, St. George's is one of the few still-operating churches and is regarded as the main Greek Orthodox church in Egypt. All visitors are welcome at any time, with the exception of the monastery, which is off-limits to outsiders.
The “Hanging Church” - Coptic Church of St. Virgin Mary
The church was known as the "Hanging Church" due to its placement above the castle gatehouse, or "Suspended Church" in Arabic, "El Moallaqa." The pillars of the gatehouse, which once would have been clearly visible and contributed to the church's appearance of hanging, are now buried as a result of the land rising during the previous 1300 years.
With 110 icons, the oldest and holiest of which date back to the eighth century, the church is said to be the first basilica-style church to be erected in Egypt.
The Synagogue of Ben Ezra
The building was once recognized as a Coptic church but later became a synagogue after it was purchased. It is located directly behind the Hanging Church. It is thought to be the location where the infant Moses was discovered.
The synagogue had several restorations throughout the ages, and the present building dates from 1892. It has two stories and is constructed in the form of a basilica, with the first floor being reserved for men and the second for women. The synagogue no longer serves as an active place of prayer but rather doubles as a museum and tourist destination due to the sharp fall in Cairo's Jewish population.
Coptic Museum
The museum, which is regarded as the greatest in Egypt for learning about Coptic history, is home to more than 1,600 artifacts from the third and fourth centuries AD when Coptic Christianity was first practiced. The bibles in this museum date from the 11th and 13th centuries and were written in Arabic and Coptic. There are also early Christian writings from the 6th century that were written on papyrus.
The icon displays and the collections of pottery, glass, metal, wood, and textiles are further noteworthy collections.
Basic Local Advice
Coptic The National Museum of Egyptian Civilization is extremely close to Cairo (well, close to Cairo, approximately 10 minutes by vehicle), so if you're going to see both while in Cairo, it makes logistical sense to visit these two locations on the same day.
If you still want to see additional Coptic churches, the Cave Church (Monastery of St. Simon the Tanner), which is carved into the Moqattam mountain, is a truly beautiful one. Spend some time browsing the many books, postcards, and other items that may be found in Coptic Cairo's little lanes.
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